Interior painting requires surface finishing as carefully as outer painting. Now, the advent of odourless paints enables painting every time of the year. Formerly, much of the home’s interior painting was done in the fall or spring when the windows could be left open to ventilate the space. But open windows were carrying dust into the room to ruin the painted surface finish. Check out Googler’s Painting to learn more about them.
A decent paint job in the interior is mostly 50 percent planning and 50% painting. Do not hurry in your eagerness to get at the brush or roller to prepare surfaces. If the surfaces are not well prepared you will be back in a few months with the paint brush or roller.
In this section you can find the requisite details on applying various types of paints to different interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.
Fresh dry plaster in good condition that is to be finished with paint other than water paint should be given a primer-sealer coat and be allowed to dry thoroughly before being tested for appearance uniformity. In the case of tinted primers, variations in gloss and colour differences indicate whether or not the entire surface was fully sealed. If not, then a second primer-sealer coat should be added. If only a few “suction spots” are evident, then a second coat may be appropriate over these areas.
A smooth, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be added to the surface of the priming. Two coats of flat-wall paint should accompany the priming coat for a smooth finish. A coat of flat wall paint and a coat of semi-gloss paint should be added onto the primed surface for a semi-gloss finish. One coat of semi-gloss paint and one coat of high-gloss enamel should be added over the priming coat for a high-gloss finish. They should be measured before applying calcimine-type water paints to new plastered walls, using either a glue-water scale or, if the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.